[Puglia on the road 3] – Polignano Mon Amour

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– The next day I left for the last part of my road-trip in Puglia (here the first, here the second) to go to a place where I had never been and that I badly wanted to visit: Polignano a Mare. I’ll tell you: I fell in love with it, madly, totally. I was thrilled to the point of raving for weeks about a possible alternative life in Polignano a Mare. I mean: how can you be unhappy, if you open the window in the morning and this is what you see?

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But first things first. I wanted to stay in the house Alta Marea of La Torretta sul Mare, but it was too expensive for me, so I preferred a slightly out-of-place accommodation, where I spent less. Not so great, but acceptable and clean (and as mothers teach: the important thing is that it’s clean). 

After settling in the room, we arrived in Polignano, shortly after the sunset.
I immediately saw this. I immediately felt myself full of beauty. 

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I had (I write in the singular, but we were 2 people, for your information, I did not do all these things alone) dinner booked at 10PM and before that I went to Casa del Mojito (Mojito House), with the intention to fight sobriety, seriously. The place was adorable and offered the possibility to choose between different variations of the cocktail. The nicest thing of cocktail in Puglia, is they do always cost less than wherever else in the Northern part of Italy
We sat in the street outside to enjoy it, waiting to head to restaurant

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Finally the 10PM. Second round for dinner at Ristorante Grotta Palazzese. So, let’s say it clearly: the bill here is salty. I mean: SALTY. Memorable (only at Cracco’s restaurant in Milan I saw a bigger balance, so to speak, and in both cases dinners were offered to me because, as I said, I’m not Paris Hilton). The food is good, but not impressive. Obviously you pay for the location. But let me tell you: hell, what an amazing location

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One of the most beautiful places, if not the most beautiful at all, in which I’ve ever been in my life. A cave in the middle of the cliff, overlooking the sea, with soft lighting and jazz music. Tasting Menus, fish dishes, of course, accompanied by a selection of wines paired with each course (the pictures are not that great, but the lights were very silk). 

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Ok, let’s say one more thing: it is typical couples-place. This, if you are intimately singles just like me, will make you feel a bit of contempt for yourselves, but other than that, guys, a marvelous place. A dream. A real experience. One of those place where a man could ask you for anything (your hand, your uterus, your holy orifices) and you would give to him. Believe me, it’s like a night in a fairytale. Beautiful. Exquisite. I ate a raw fish appetizer (and I hate raw, but since every bite costed something like 15 euros did not seem appropriate to be squeamish), two pastas with seafood (one of which with the typical “ricci di mare”), seared tuna in green sauce, and dessert.  

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I left at 1AM. Drunk. Sated. Happy. 

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The following day I woke up, I had breakfast and checked-out the room. Then I came back to the centre of Polignano, to enjoy it with the sunlight. Needless to say, the place was gorgeous even during the day, indeed it was even more. I strolled through the streets, among the homes and old women sitting outside on chairs, in the middle of the road, talking to each other. Or drying clothes in the sun. 

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 I walked the cliff continuing to look, so fascinated, to this town, which is there, on tiptoe, on the sea, till the last rock edge before the precipice. 

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I watched the tourist boats on the blue surface of that deep sea. I went into a lovely café, named Caffé dei Serafini, where I saw a small balcony that looked out right on the cliff. I ordered a coffee and I stayed there an hour, to make stocks of wonder (for those long winter months, made of asphalt, cement and little flowerbeds in the city). 

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For lunch, I went to this pretty known restaurant of the area, Tuccino, where I had lunch – again – in front of the sea. Seafood, of course. The owner is so warming and professional, and welcoming. He tells you the dishes with passion and love, recommending the best ones and the wines to match with. A funny thing, actually, was that when I mentioned I do not like raw fish (you have to consider that in Puglia not-eating raw fish is almost a criminal offense, they’ll look at you with more contempt than if you were an organ smuggler), he really tried to convince me. His assistant looked at me with a mixture of astonishment and regret, and said: “It’s a pity, Madam, because in this way you don’t feel the real taste of the sea” 

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By the way, I ate two pastas (no surprise to find out that I came back to Milan with 4 more kg, of course). The first one was orecchiette with squid ink, clams, shrimp, zucchini flowers and julienne-zucchini (really DELICIOUS). 

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The second one was potato gnocchi with clams and sage. Very good these ones too. 

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Below you can find an image of me at the end of the lunch: almost dead. Dead of food.

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In the early afternoon I had to leave, because my road-trip was miserably coming to an end. But it was so nice to do it, that I not only hope to come back at some of the places I’ve seen, but I also hope to make other road-trips here, to find out what I don’t know yet of this incredible part of Italy. Up, to the Gargano area. Down, deep in the Salento
But for this, if everything goes for the best, we will have to wait the next year.
Dreaming to have more, and more, and more, of Puglia
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One thought on “[Puglia on the road 3] – Polignano Mon Amour

  1. Pingback: [Puglia on the road 3] – Polignano Mon Amour | Un giorno sarò una Travel Blogger

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